El fin del mundo (almost)

Thursday 21st February
Hello. Well I am back in Puerto Natales (Chile) having visited (and liked alot) the End of the World. Spent the last few days in Ushuaia (Argentina) Tierra del Fuego, right at the bottom of South America... just 1000km north of Antartica. I'd have quite liked a wee trip there actually but its unbelievably expensive (at least 2 thousand pounds), pah! But I had plenty to do; Walked to Galciar Martial, visited a couple of cool museums, took a boat trip on the Beagle channel, spent a day hiking in the Tierra del Fuego national park, ate yummy seafood, generally looked round the area loving the fact that almost everything was named after me (if you overlook the 'y' at the end of Beagley). I especially like Beagle beer, mmm.

I particularly liked learning about the Yamana indians... who lived along the Beagle channel 10000 years ago. They seem like a nice bunch of people, sharing everything and living equally amongst themselves and with nature etc. Sadly theres only 1 pure Yamana left now and she is in her 80's. Amazingly they lived completely naked except for a small seal skin cape to cover their shoulders against the wind. And they covered themselves in seal fat to keep warm and make themselves more waterproof. Considering how chilly it is down here I found that amazing.

I love the towns down here, all rickety, colourful, corrugated iron buildings that look tiny yet somehow open up into the most amazing and cosy homes or hostels or whatever. Quite fancy one myself actually.

Was supposed to board the Navimag ferry tonight but just got an email telling me its rescheduled for tomorrow (at least I think thats what it says after my translation skills). The ferry will (hopefully) take me up past glaciars in the fjords to Puerto Montt in Chile. My plan from there is to visit the island of Chiloe then head north to Pucon and Santiago and then on to Lima in Peru to meet Bert! Hurray.